Monthly Archives: April 2012

Turning Rebellion Into Money

Picture credit

Having a pop at shopkeepers is not a new phenomena, Napoleon described England as a ‘nation of shopkeepers’ to suggest it was unfit for war against France. Source The country has been governed by a shopkeepers daughter in the divisive figure of Margaret Thatcher. The health of our High Streets acts as a barometer for the health of the economy.

As a child I grew up knowing nothing other than a family retail business. My family had two electrical retail businesses operating, still in the 1970s,  a pre war economic model. The company, CF Hall & Co Ltd, bore my grandfather’s name and employed my mother, father, elderley aunts, uncles, my grandmother and various seemingly ancient retainers. As babies myself and my siblings were parked outside the shops in prams as the shop never generated salaries large enough for childcare. Customer service, the kind where you know every customer by name, their address and their personal preferences was automatic.

As a young teenager – actually twelve if the truth be known – I was ‘made’ to work in the shop. This was not a matter of forced labour but economic fact. Money was earnt. The shop I worked in was in an extremely affluent location populated by titled and/or wealthy inhabitants. These customers patronised our shop in the old fashioned meaning of the word and very often patronised me in the more contemporary sense. I ‘served’ in the shop – I didn’t function within an articulated customer service policy.

Growing up in white middle class Surrey can do one of two things. It can make you a lifelong Tory or a rebel. I chose rebel, I chose punk, I chose counter culture. My Dad wanted me to go to University as a pioneer for our family – I wanted art college. The era, the early 80s, gave me a a fabulous set of mouthy left wing role models Morrissy, Paul Weller, Billy Bragg, Siouxsie Sioux, Boy George.

After a year at Art College I ended up at The  University of Warwick in the last few golden years where a poor kid like me from limited means could get their fees paid and a full maintenace grant because of now divorced parents. My natural rebellion and embryonic politics were developed with a fine line in Marxist Feminist rhetoric. Laura Mulvey was a way of life.

Post University I worked extrememly hard for barely more than an intern’s salary in London until a surprisingly speedy marriage and even speedier unplanned pregnancy necessitated a move back to Surrey.

Major recessions and life changing moments for me seem to go hand in hand. There was no 4×4  and Venture photo shoot lifestyle for me. Like a lot of Mothers work was not a choice but a financial necessity. I joined my own Mother in her bridal wear business as a temporary measure.

That was nearly eighteen years ago. I didn’t start the business because I was in love with weddings or because I wanted to live like a princess in perpetuity. I joined as an employee and I brought to the business an independant feminist streak. A lack of fear in being outspoken. An age very close to the clients – 26 at the time. I bought fashion in a time of frills.

Why, you ask, do I need to explain all of this to you? I have recently read an article that has incensed me so much that I still cannot be calm about it. I very much appreciate the freedom of expression that Blogging brings to the world. There is a line though between opinion and trolling. The article purported to be an undercover investigative piece looking at a wedding dress shop ( not my shop to be absolutely clear) – the first in a series.

The BBC, arbitor of all things fair, has an editorial policy that reads –

“When we make allegations of wrong doing, iniquity or incompetence or lay out a strong and damaging critique of an individual or institution the presumption is that those criticised should be given a “right of reply”, that is, given a fair opportunity to respond to the allegations before transmission”

In a new age of social media the law governing what is fair and just is foggy. I accept hurtful and spiteful reviews on Review Centre. These are opinions and are read as such. They have also, on some occasions, been  useful in highlighting areas that need improving. I would still welcome a complaint directly. A letter or email clearly pointing out where Miss Bush has gone wrong and where we can improve. ( A full time receptionist would be one area if the budget allowed – interns wecome!)

I feel that blogs that are set out in a magazine format, accept advertising revenue and move to publish a magazine should have an articulated editorial policy to protect victims from smear campaigns as much as protecting themselves from legal action. I would hate  them to diminish through poor editorial judgement.

The reason for the brief synopsis of my life is to demonstrate a belief in rebellion as a force of good. Free speech as a fundamental right. I also believe that women working in service industries such as retailing do not deserve to be patronised as I was when I was 15. If acting like a rock star, posturing for the praise of strangers, is the driving force behind one’s strategy I suggest picking up a guitar.

I am not presuming to talk for all women in bridalwear shops. I know I and my team work long, hard hours – we love playing dress up, we adore the clothes and most of our customers get on with is brilliantly. I fully expect some people not to find my service deferential enough. I refuse to tell you you look beautiful in everything if you don’t. I reserve the right to integrity. Once – an only once –  have I asked a customer to leave.

I have stood strong and upright in the shop in the face of huge personal adversity because I have an commitment and obligation to my clients.

This is hardcore

Fashion Show

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Jenny Packham 2013 – a cheeky first look

Last week New York hosted the first of the trade Bridal Markets for the new 2013 collections. I would loved to have skipped off Stateside to have a look at the collections from the US designers however I have been tied to the shop and almost literally the kitchen sink!

One of the treats of the trade show for me would have been a first glance at, Miss Bush perennial favourite, Jenny Packham’s new season collection. Luckily for me Brides magazine was in NYC and has sneak peeked a few photos for us to collectively lust over long distance.

To check out the rest of their informal show images please follow the link to their website – http://www.bridesmagazine.co.uk/blog/2012/04/13/new-york-bridal-fashion-week/gallery#!photo86
where you can find these images along with glimpses of Vera Wang’s scarlet brides.

Postcard From New York – The Shoot and Inspiration

To avoid confusion for non-wedding industry workers the following pictures would be termed a concept, styled or collaborative shoot. This means creating a team of different trades, for eg. photographer, stylist, etc, to create an ‘inspiration’ shoot. These can take the form of a mock wedding or have more of a fashion editorial feel. At best these can break new ideas and show case genius at worst you want to look away quickly whilst making negative mental notes.

Perhaps my background in the shallow end of design and advertising leads me to expect a clear message and purpose from photo shoot images. Some shoots would seem to be purposeless. My task, as I see it, is to be the ‘client’ and to set a brief. I could no more ‘craft’ anything than I could make a dress. So befuddled would I be ‘on location’ that not one useable image would be produced. A learned friend of mine has described my job as being a curator of  dress collections. I would agree and add that have also hunter-gathered a brilliant team of like minded creatives to realise my ideas without any discernable skill input from me. No ‘have-a-go’ styling heroics from me.To paraphrase William Morris I struggle to see the point in photos I don’t “know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful.” This shoot had a purpose commercially – to shout New York Style about the JLM Couture brand – I wanted useful and beautiful…

In my constant search for fresh looks, new brands I came across JLM Couture. To be fair they are hardly niche – they are a big US fashion house with a stable of labels. I wasn’t trawling degree shows to discover Tara Keely, I don’t want to position myself as Isabella Blow.

I will own up to developing a crush on them as they represent a sleek diffusion of New York supremos Vera Wang and Oscar de la Renta. The dresses at their very best steer a path away from the twisted, ruched and draped poly taffeta bestsellers of the ersatz designers on the mass market. The are pleasingly minimal but with a dose or perfume ad pretty.

To make a large song and dance about how much I like the JLM frocks and bridesmaids dresses I decided to hold a trunk show like no other. A shoot followed by a cocktail partyand fashion show.  In an uber competeitive market, where the world and it’s mother are opening a bridal shop, the best way to demonstrate the difference at Miss Bush is to get your attention. To show you why we are different – why we are the ‘out of town’ Browns.

This shoot is supremely creative. I had my best girls on the case. The reason why I think it works is that it started on the premise of beauty. The three models we have used have been scouted by myself and Carolanne Armstrong. We regularly and mercilessly tease each other about our girl crushes – how we fall in love with women’s faces. So despite our heterosexuality our lady loves manage to inform our choices. Jade, Jeni amd Ellie’s faces are heavenly. Jade’s face is beauty with art and intelligence pouring forth, Jeni’s face is that of a sex goddess and Ellie face has the perfect pout and is irresistably youthful.

These faces were in place all the time while thinking about the USP for JLM. It’s the New York vibe. The dresses are designed and made in New York – fantastically unusual – the benefit for brides being that the deliveries are great and the service second to none.

My mind became preoccupied with New York women, TV shows, films, music and night life. My first thoughts were Park Avenue Princesses – like the Gossip Girl women, a bit of SATC and Bergdorf blondes; Greenwich village girls all beatniks and Joni Mitchell; Wall Street woman – hard edges and Working Girl 80s style.

My Park Avenue Princess stayed. My Greenwich village Joni Mitchell “We had no money. I made my wedding dress… I walked down the aisle brandishing my daisies” moved to Tribeca and became a bit Olsen twin. Wall Street woman didn’t work – Jeni, dammit, is too sexy. A tiny frame with a fine bust meant she looked ok at best, slutty at worst in some of the original concepts. So my mind whirled a bit more – I was still obsessing about suiting and masculine looks with her burningly beautiful face making it feminine. Her look is a fashion smoothie. Jeni is Annie Hall, she is Frank Sinatra crooning wedding standard New York New York, she is Elvis and kd lang. Jeni represents the New York of counter culture, freedom and Pride. Miss Bush brides are not always straight so the ambiguity of the gender roles is interesting layer to the shoot.

The colour scheme – it’s all about the Taxi. Yellow, black and grey are Miss Bush’s colours deliberately chosen to stand away from the twee-crowd.

Once the models were dressed in my head, the looks briefed. the flowers sourced, the location scouted what did I do then? I walked away.

Juliet McKee is a brilliant photographer – I am not. Amy Plank is a great stylist with unwaivering patience and attention to detail – I am better at the bigger picture. Carolanne and Sharon do great make up and hair – I still do GHDs and Rimmel. Gayle Evans is a flower genius – I don’t know my aster from elbow. I know what their considerable strengths are individually but as a team they delivered more than I could have hoped for. Did the girls shout NYC style? You bet your bottom dollar they did…

“Woke up, it was a Chelsea morning
And the first thing that I saw
Was the sun through yellow curtains
And a rainbow on the wall” Joni Mitchell

 “Late last night the screen door slam
And a big yellow taxi took away my old man ” Joni Mitchell

“You told me again you preferred handsome men
but for me you would make an exception. ” Leonard Cohen

“…I’m waiting for the sun to shine.” Travis Bickle, Taxi Driver

“You’re a young girl, you should be at home. You should be dressed up, going out with boys, going to school” Travis Bickle, Taxi Driver

Credits

Photography Juliet McKee
Make Up Carolanne Armstrong
Hair Sharon Roberts
Styling Amy Plank
Models Jeni Cook, Ellie Cooper, Jade Puttock
Flowers Bloomingayles
Menswear Hugh Harris
Taxi  Taxi RR Elite via Star Car Hire

Jade wears Jim Hejlm Blush Style 1156 from Miss Bush
Ellie wears Tara Keely Style 2052 from Miss Bush
Jeni wears Hugh Harris suit

Lucy Bartosik in Jenny Packham Eve

Only this very morning, through the marvel of Twitter, was I being congratulated on steering a styled photo shoot that was original. In my semi-conscious, duvet world and with the typical ‘girl brushing off a compliment’ way I replied it’s because I’ve been in bridal wear a long time.

 For my brides this could mean one of two things.

Firstly that I could be slightly jaded and keep rehashing old patterns to new customers year after year. (I would love to  name check a small retail chain that does this but I think that way danger lies!) Indeed very unoriginal.

Secondly, and the way of Miss Bush, is that I am constantly seeking reinventions, exploring season after season what it means to be a bride this year, this month. Bridalwear is a narrow aesthetic. True you can get married in your jeans – in which case a specific wedding dress shop is redundant. Walk into a wedding dress shop and you want to see clothes that are recognisably bridal. Whether that is the colour, the length or the fit. So one of my greatest challenges is to find dresses or garments that say ‘I’m a bride’ that don’t look like they’ve come from a clip art folder. Generic or derivative dresses are all very well – I have been just recently been to a trade show where there are thousands – so I assume they must sell.

My aim is to dress brides in a frock that is fabulous on the day and remembered by their guests forever after the wedding! As such my brides and I seem to gravitate to each other and Lucy here is one such bride.

“My “Eve” dress by Jenny Packham was perfect for me.  I remember coming into your shop, after my best friend Sarah (Sarah Timothy nee Meade) urged me to try your dresses.  After trying on several enormous gowns at other shops, it was a relief to try something that I didn’t feel so drowned in.  And you were the only shop that actually advised me on what type of dress suited me, something I am very grateful for!”

“.. My new husband loved it too, and you can see his surprise at my dress in one of the photos below (he really is checking my dress out!).  Richard didn’t know that wedding dresses existed without the enormous skirts…”

 

I would like to thank Lucy and Richard for sharing their photos and for Lucy for wearing Jenny Packham so beautifully – it is emphatically ‘weddingy’ xxx
“I would be very happy for you to include my photos on your blog. The photos are by Richard at Rightshot photography – http://www.rightshot.co.uk/…Richard and I are settling down into married life and enjoying every minute of it!
Love Lucy x x x”

Laura Bell in Suzanne Neville’s Devotion

I am so delighted to have Laura’s pictures because, despite the fact I could bore for Britain about the minutiae of wedding world, my core job, responsibility and calling is to dress brides. The winter is a relatively lean month for weddings – though be warned winter brides I shall be stalking your inbox soon – but a very busy period for the shop. I haven’t had as much time to hunt down photos and the Miss Bush blog has had a rather Emma Meek bias. As anyone who has met me will testify, I am a virtual wallflower so this has been troubling to my inherent shyness.

Is anyone buying this?

More than anything I have loved seeing these photos on a wintry day when the false promise of summer has given way to wet, grey skies. When Outlook is filled to bursting, the phone is relentless, home hasn’t cleaned itself, a few window envelopes are eyeballing me and the supper has not been started. Clearly the responsible thing to do is dream about a luxury resort in Malaysia where ” Twilight happens all too soon. But with sunset cocktails and dinner in a beach-side gazebo served by your own private butler, you don’t really mind.” – have a little link love in and see what I mean.

Laura dropped me an email…


“Hi Emma

My official photos are now “in” and thought you and the girls at Miss Bush may want a peak of how the dress looks in the pics.

You will probably spot the gorgeous Polly Edwards “Claudette” band too!

We didn’t hold out much hope for the pics as the photographer came with our wedding package, and after seeing some of your blogs about getting the right photographer I was worried! It seems as though we were lucky however and thankfully we have some lovely ones to cherish.

Hope you are all well, and please pass on my thanks to Corrine and Jen once again just for being so fab!
Hope you enjoy

          Laura xx”

We always love photos – although it might appear, from my demands that brides choose good photographers, that I am becoming slightly despotic…

Polly Edwards triumphs again…
The train looks enormous! I’m sure this is a trick of the light!

See – much littler train….

I want to sit on a beach at sunset soon please….

Thank you so much to Laura and John for sharing a few precious images of what looks like a perfectly relaxed  corner of paradise.
Laura’s credits

“We got married at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria resort in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia on the 23rd Feb.

The photographer was Jeffrey Wong at All About Love photography –

http://www.allaboutlove.com.my/

At the ceremony were John and I …16 guests… & a lovely sunset. “

A little word about Miss Bush “Keep up the fabulous work…” – oh well – if we must 😉 xxx

 

Postcard from New York – Behind the Scenes

When I look these images I wonder how it was that the forces of the universe and the alignments of the planets threw Sharon Roberts, Carolanne Armstrong and I into the same orbit. Add to this vixen collective my long time, long suffering Bush legend Amy Plank and Juliet McKee – photographer and survivor of an argument with me. ( To be fair – sometimes utter frankness doesn’t scan well on email – I ‘may’ have sounded rude.)
Then add in the models – Carolanne scouted the gorgeous Jade, Human League style, whilst working as a waitress therefore sealing her Svengali reputation and saddling her with a reputation for sexual ambiguity. Jeni – another Miss Bush veteran – is actually a friend of my daughter whose chiseled cheekbones make me want to weep and run off for some ‘pillow-face’ surgery. Ellie the fawn-like, long limbed lovely is the younger daughter of a friend and surprised Adam Crohill at the Postcard from New York event by changing back into her school uniform as she left.
It is a veritable recipe for disaster. Five decades of womankind working together to produce images of beauty that transcend our personal taste.  Belligerent, stubborn, creative, funny, clever, quirky – I don’t know in which order of importance I’d place these but they’ve all got these qualities. Add in bossy and opinionated for me and from a flat pancake of possibility rises a beautiful confection of cool.
I’d happily spend my hours on Pinterest plotting new shoots were it not for the significant lapses in time that occur along with some badly fed kids and RSI of the mouse hand! For now here’s a few backstage moments. They are my personal A Team, and in the words of Hannibal – I love it when a plan comes together.
Heavenly Jade being made up by her scout Carolanne Armstrong

Sharon and I consider our Park Avenue Princess Ellie

Jeni becoming the hottest boy ever…

My brief was sleek, sleek, sleek – and I don’t care if it’s greasy in real life!
Sharon, Amy and Carolanne at work at Miss Bush Chapel

On location – I sense I’ll have Amy on my case for these photos
Amy doing what she does best – dressing and styling!
All photography Juliet McKee